Vehicle ScouterStartWhat to check when buying a used car
Most buyers do this the expensive way round: fall for a car, drive an hour to view it, then pay £150 for a mechanic to tell them what its MOT history said for free. Do it in this order instead.
MOT history, mileage story, known faults. 30 seconds, rules out most cars.
Cold start, panel gaps, warning lights, test drive. Costs you an hour.
£100–£200, on the one car you actually intend to buy.
Stage one: the desk check, before you drive anywhere
Everything here comes off the registration alone, and it's the stage that saves you the most money — because it's the stage that stops you viewing bad cars at all.
MOT history and mileage
Every test, every failure, every advisory, and the recorded mileage at each one. Look for mileage that drops or barely moves for a year, and for the same advisory repeating test after test — that's a fault nobody ever fixed.
Corrosion and structural advisories
Corrosion on sills, subframes, brake pipes or suspension mounts is the single biggest reason to walk away. It rarely gets cheaper and it's the one thing a shiny paint job hides best.
Outstanding finance, write-off and stolen markers
If there's finance still on the car, the lender can legally take it back after you've paid for it. A write-off marker or a stolen marker means the same thing: stop.
Known faults for that exact model and year
Some engines eat timing chains, some gearboxes cost more than the car. Model-specific faults are predictable — you just have to know them before you view.
Our free MOT check pulls DVSA records straight from the source and lays the mileage and advisory history out in plain English. If the car clears it, the Buyer's Verdict adds the finance, write-off, stolen and mileage checks plus the model-specific faults to look for at the viewing.
Stage two: what to check at the viewing
Free, and you only do it for cars that survived stage one. Take somebody with you and never view in the dark or the rain.
- Cold start — turn up early and insist the engine is stone cold. Most expensive noises only show on a cold start.
- Panel gaps and paint mismatch down each side in daylight — signs of a repaired shunt.
- Tyre wear across the tread: uneven wear means alignment, suspension or accident damage.
- Every warning light comes on with the ignition then goes out. A bulb removed to hide an airbag light is common.
- Clutch bite point high near the top of travel usually means it's near the end.
- Oil cap and dipstick: mayonnaise under the cap can point to head gasket trouble.
- Test drive above 50mph, with the radio off, and brake hard once in a safe spot.
- V5C logbook in the seller's name, at the address you're standing at, with matching VIN.
Stage three: when a mechanic inspection is worth £150
Pay for a professional inspection when the car is expensive relative to your budget, when it's a model with a known catastrophic-cost failure (timing chains, DSG gearboxes, DPFs), when you can't drive it properly yourself, or when you're buying unseen from a distance. On a £2,000 runabout that already has clean MOT history and no advisories, the inspection fee is 8% of the car — that's a judgement call. On a £12,000 car it's cheap insurance.
What it can't do is replace the desk check. An inspector reports the car's condition on the day; they don't know it failed on structural corrosion in 2022 or that the mileage went backwards between two owners. Run both, in that order, and you're covered on history and condition.
Frequently asked questions
Should I get a used car checked before buying it?
Yes — but in two stages. Run the free MOT history check first: it costs nothing and rules out cars with corrosion advisories, mileage inconsistencies or repeat structural failures. Only pay for a physical inspection (£100–£200) on a car that clears that first filter and that you're genuinely ready to buy.
What does an online history check tell me that an inspection doesn't?
History: every MOT test the car has ever had, what failed, what was advised and when, the recorded mileage at each test, plus outstanding finance, insurance write-off markers, stolen markers and plate changes. A mechanic sees the car as it is today — they can't see that it failed on corroded sills three years ago or that the mileage dropped between 2021 and 2022.
What does a mechanic inspection tell me that a history check doesn't?
Condition right now: clutch wear, gearbox feel, suspension knocks, oil leaks, brake life, tyre condition, bodywork filler and diagnostic fault codes. A history check can't hear a whining bearing or feel a slipping clutch. That's why it's stage two, not a replacement for stage one.
How much does a pre-purchase inspection cost in the UK?
Roughly £100–£200 for a full mobile inspection from the AA, RAC or an independent inspector, depending on the car's size and how far they travel. A local independent garage will often do an hour on a ramp for £50–£80 if you can take the car to them.
What should I check myself before viewing?
The reg. Check the MOT history, confirm the mileage story adds up, and read the known common faults for that model and year so you know what to prod at the viewing. Turning up already knowing the car failed twice on brake pipes changes the conversation entirely.
Start with the free bit.
Paste the reg and see the full MOT and mileage history before you spend a penny or a Saturday.
Check a reg